O’Connor Insurance was an early participant in the Green Power Community Challenge. Each month we post our carbon offset results from our solar energy array on our headquarters in Creve Coeur.
We are proud to be doing our part to make Creve Coeur one of the leading communities nationwide in deriving our power from renewable resources.
This month, our carbon offset is 1.92 tons. We have offset the equivalent of 33 trees.
Thanks to our solar vendor, Microgrid Solar, for the photo.
May Energy Tip – Spring into energy savings (From the http://energy.gov)
How seal air leaks with caulk:
Air leaks can waste a lot of your energy dollars. Whether leaks are letting hot air inside during the warmer months or letting in drafts during the cooler season, one of the quickest energy- and money-saving tasks you can do is caulk, seal and weather strip all cracks and large openings to the outside. Air takes the path of least resistance, so you should aim to seal the big holes first. We’ve laid out some simple instructions for sealing most of these air leakage pathways – but if you’re sealing heating and cooling ducts, we suggest contacting contractor that’s familiar with the different air sealing methods often best done with duct work.
1.) For good adhesion, clean all areas to be caulked.
Remove any old caulk and paint, using a putty knife or a large screwdriver. Make sure the area is dry so you won’t seal in moisture.
2.) Prep the caulking gun (if you’re using one).
Cut the tip of the cartridge of caulk at a 45-degree angle and insert the tube in the gun. If you’ve never used a caulking gun, take this time to do a “test caulking” on a newspaper or paper towel so you have a good sense of what to expect before taking your project to a more conspicuous door or window.
3.) Hold the caulking gun at a 45-degree angle to the now-dried, clean edge that’s to be filled.
Using a pulling motion, hold the gun at a consistent angle and slide the tube nozzle along the joint, while pulling the trigger of the caulk gun to apply the material. You know you’ve got the right angle when the caulk is immediately forced into the crack as it comes out of the tube. Try to avoid stops and starts by caulking in one straight continuous stream.
4.) “Tool” the caulk by pushing it into the crack.
Once you’ve covered 2-3 feet of the surface with a bead of caulk, dampen your finger (or spoon, piece of wood or foam paintbrush if you don’t want the material to touch your hand) and glide over the bead, pushing the caulk into the crack, and force the caulk deeper into the crack you’re filling.
5.) Clean up any mistakes or excess caulk with a damp rag.
Make sure to take care of any problem areas right away, since dried caulk is much harder to clean up later.
6.) Allow the caulk to dry according to the directions on the package.
It usually takes about 24 hours for the caulk to fully cure, but can depend on air temperature and humidity.